Pool Table Care

We want you to have full enjoyment of your pool table. With a reasonable amount of care your pool table will perform exceptionally well for decades. Here are a few simple suggestions to follow for the best performance.

CLOTH: The life of the cloth depends on how often your table is used. We estimate that you will want to replace the cloth every three to five years under normal play and care. By comparison, pool rooms with heavy use may replace the cloth every 6 months. Discourage players from trying masse, jump and scoop shots. Even the most accomplished players will leave cloth burns, white marks or tears. Balls should not be dropped on your table. White marks will appear at the end you break from or when a ball is dropped. This is normal. Sometimes burn and white marks can be minimized if you rub the spot with a damp cloth. Occasionally, the nap will collect in small balls. Don’t be alarmed as this is normal with new cloth. Vacuum or brush the cloth as needed. If using a brush, brush dust towards each pocket, then brush the entire surface lengthwise in one direction. Occasional vacuuming removes dust that has filtered through the cloth. Cover the table with a dust cover when it is not in use. It is recommended that the tips of all cue sticks be shaped prior to use. This will minimize damage to the cloth. Discourage players from placing drinks on the table. If a liquid is spilled on the cloth, place a damp, soft absorbent towel or cloth over the spot. Since the cloth is very unforgiving, it is likely that the spot will remain visible despite your efforts. The best solution is to keep drinks well away from the playing surface. Cigarettes should also be kept off the table at all times.

FINISH: Most tables have a Catalized Laquer finish on the rails that requires very little care, but it can be damaged. For example, belt buckles, metal studs (on jeans), rings and sliding your cue on the rail top can scratch, mar or dent the finish of the table. Wipe the rails occasionally with a dry soft rag and a bit of lemon oil or spray wax to keep them looking good. Avoid getting any oil on the cloth. If a rail is marred, the scratch can be concealed with the careful use of a “Touch-up” marker that matches your table’s finish.

POCKETS: Leather is a product of Mother Nature and, consequently, there may be minor variations in color or texture from pocket to pocket. The pockets are no different than a pair of shoes, handbag or briefcase. They can be scuffed. They may be stiff at the outset but, with normal use, the pockets will absorb natural oils and moisture from the hands of the players. If the pockets do not hang symmetrically, simply weight them by leaving balls in the pockets for a few days. Using a pocket as a playing guide for the cue stick can cause the finish to rub off. Occasionally, wipe off the leather with a damp cloth to remove soil. A light treatment of saddle soap is helpful if they appear to be excessively dry but cracks may appear in the leather under normal use. Use care to avoid contacting the table finish with pocket treatment materials.

GENERAL: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE TABLE. Your table has been professionally installed in a precise position by a trained and authorized technician. The table is not just a heavy piece of furniture. Attempts to move the table can harm the slate, aprons and rails and WILL VOID THE WARRANTY. We encourage you to call your Dealer if you want the table moved within the room, to another room (during carpet replacement), or to another location. Discourage players from sitting on the rails of the table. Among other problems, this can cause the rubber cushion to “loosen” and may damage the wood.